Monday, 29 July 2013

Morgan's - Adelaide Street

It may not be an obvious choice for Sunday lunch, but this week I headed to review Morgan's - one of Swansea's premier hotels.

The familiar Victorian building on Adelaide Street

Like other hotels in the area, Morgan's has a dedicated upstairs restaurant which serves food to hotel guests and "outsiders" (like me). On this occasion I headed down with a party of nine for a celebratory lunch.

It did get busier!

The dining room is simple Victorian decor - very open and airy. If, like the photo above, there are only a handful of customers it could seem a little too cavernous, but when the room began to fill the atmosphere was pleasant.

Now, despite my love of food I am not a fan of the traditional Sunday lunch, so I was pleasantly surprised to find a good selection of contemporary dishes on the set menu (£14.50 for two courses, £18.50 for three).

To start I went for the ham hock, minted pea puree and a mini wholemeal loaf, which did the job. Unfortunately for me it was the case of "I wish I'd gone for something else". Not that mine wasn't tasty (it was), but the others, such as the char-grilled mackerel, celeriac and beetroot remoulade or the duck breast and fig salad, just looked nicer when they arrived.


Nice, but in retrospect I should have gone for something different.

I was looking forward to my main course - roast chicken supreme. And there were no regrets when a beautiful plate of chicken arrived. You could say it was... supreme!

The chicken was well cooked and tasty, and served on a bed of two colourful purees - pea and sweet potato. The sweet potato in particular was creamy and rich and felt more like a desert than a main accompaniment. It went down very well with the chicken and madeira jus.


Brilliant main meal

Regular readers will know my dissatisfaction when vegetables are not served as standard (highlighted in my reviews of Vincent's and Eleos) but a long plate of vegetables to share arrived with the meal as standard - a good selection including cauliflower cheese, broccoli and mange tout.

To finish, I took advantage of the three courses offer and chose a baked black forest fondant with chocolate ganache. Very rich, but a great chocolaty end to the meal. The black forest theme really shone through the brandy-soaked cherries. Superb!


Nice end to a great meal

So, for a change to some restaurants around, fine-dining actually meant fine-dining. It's not a cheap lunch, but you definitely get what you pay for at Morgan's.

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